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Playing Hooky in Neusiedl am See

A mid-week escape to the lakeside resort of Neusidl am See in sunny Burgenland.

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Things I’m Going to Miss: the Donaukanal

Every weekday, rain or shine, I go for a brisk walk. Since my apartment-bound life in Vienna is unusually sedentary for me (I'm used to renovating houses and gardening a half-acre or so) this daily...

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Things I Am Not Going to Miss: Smokers

I won’t repeat my epic rant about Austria being the ashtray of Europe. But today, as two smokers sat down next to me in a bus shelter, I was reminded once again of how annoying the Viennese nicotine...

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Things I Am Going to Miss: Public Transportation

We shipped our car a month ago and I have barely noticed. I can get anywhere I want to on die öffis, a complicated network of under- and above-ground trains, trams, buses and bike paths. It took a...

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Things I Am Going To Miss: Wild Pigs

Preferably with käsespaetzle (cheese noodles) and preiselbeeren (wild cranberries). Why is this wildragout (wild boar stew) so freaking good? Because the pig ran around in the Alpine woods for a year...

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Innsbruck: Because More Cowbell

I knew absolutely nothing about Innsbruck before we arrived, other than it was on the way to Italy and was kind of ski chic. I definitely had no idea it was such a tourist trap. It’s nice enough, but...

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Innsbruck: Tyrolean Folk Art Museum

The Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum is one of the best collections of folk art I have ever seen, in any country. Yet it was practically empty on the day we visited. Go figure! The Tyrol is an entirely Alpine...

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Innsbruck: This Folk Art is Not Cowbell

So, when I was looking up stuff to do in Innsbruck, I went on Trip Advisor and read reviews that mentioned how “weird” and “creepy” the Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum was. Some even recommended that small...

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Innsbruck: Getting Above It All

We have a rule for traveling: whenever there is a hill, we must go up it. And so, we escaped the tourist hordes once again, and took the Nordkettenbahn (train) and cable car up the Seegrube, a mountain...

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Innsbruck: Hapsburg Weirdness at Schloss Ambras

Schloss Ambras sits on a hill just outside Innsbruck. We stopped there on the way out of town, and it turned out to be pretty interesting.   Located on the site of a tenth-century castle, the current...

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